We finally got our flash floods

But more of that later.

We left Windhoek on a very rainy day and decided to head towards Sossusvlei, Namibia’s number one tourist destination. The route took us through yet more stunning scenery. We made a lovely bush camp that evening after a bit of track bashing to find a sheltered spot. The next morning we passed this herd of Oryx (Gemsbok) as we headed back to the road.

In Solitaire we treated ourselves to their famous apple crumble (having read about it in an article about Mike Copeland’s trans-Africa trip). It was really good to enjoy someone else’s cooking. From the entrance to Sossusvlei we could see that there had been a lot of rain in the mountains and there was much talk of a couple of roads being washed out. We took a look at the Sesriem Canyon. This is normally dry and it is possible to walk along the bottom of the canyon, not today though.



We had heard it is best to view Sossusvlei in early morning sun. Considering that the camping fees were £40 (UK) for the night (just a little out of our budget).We decided to camp down the road a bit so that we could make an early start in the morning, it was still a 65km drive in the park to Sossusvlei. We ended up camping on a bit of high ground near to where the road was flooding. We whiled away the time watching drivers decide whether or not to negotiate the crossing. We did not want to go through the flooded road in case the water increased overnight and we could not get back again as it was still raining in the mountains. That was a good decision. The waters rose considerably overnight and at some point during the night we had been completely surrounded by water. At this point, though, we did not know that the same ephemeral river makes it way to Sossusvlei.

Shortly before 6am we packed up the tent and waited for the gate to open at 6.30. Apparently the internal gate opens at 5.30, but plebs like us are not allowed in until an hour later. We bought our permits and we were on our way as the sun rose. But we did not get very far. After 25km we could go no further. Quite a few cars and tourist vehicles had collected watching the torrent of water blocking our way. I took a wade through the first half of it which was fine but the second half- NO WAY. We retired to a hill for breakfast and to wait it out.



While I climbed the nearest sand dune and Gavin did computer stuff and kept an eye on the water level from afar. The water level was dropping and by 10.30 we moved back down to have a closer look. However there was still rapids in the river.



Many people came and went and we did feel that everybody was waiting for us to make the first move. Even at one o’clock the water was still too fast. Eventually at 2 o’clock, when no one was watching, Gavin made his way on foot to the other side. The water level had reduced by nearly a metre since when I first had a look. We decided that if he could walk it then the car could definitely make it, and the old girl performed very well. Not too much water came in the rear passenger doors and we were the first through and no one else knew, so we had the whole park to ourselves. Fantastic.

After another 30km the sand became quite soft, so for the first time we decided to let some air out of the tyres and it really made a difference, especially with the extra weight we carry around. We enjoyed a wonderful few hours exploring the Sossusvlei pan (a clay pan surrounded by huge dunes) and Dedvlei.

When we returned to the car the underside was being besieged by about 20 small finch like birds trying to get to the water trapped in the nooks and crannies. In the evening there were quite a few jackals around but they did not bother us. I think that they help to keep the place clean. Only two more vehicles entered after us

We ended up spending the night there which we think may not be permitted, but there was nothing to say that it was prohibited and we did arrive quite late (bear in mind that we were sold permits when it was already known to park staff that the road was impassable).

In the morning we were up on the dunes before sunrise where it was beautifully still, waiting for the tranquillity to be broken. But no one arrived for another hour and a half. We cannot help but wonder how many experience having Sossusvlei to themselves. We did observe some water covering part of the valley in the distance but we had not brought our binoculars up with us, otherwise we may have noticed that it was moving- it was the water left over from yesterdays flooding making its way to Sossusvlei.

After more people started to arrive we made our way out, only to be met by the water as it made its way to Sossusvlei. It was very surreal to see the water headed straight towards us. We reached higher ground where we had breakfast and re-inflated the tyres. By the time we were ready to leave we heard that the water had reached the pan which was slowly filling up.

We are now in Luderitz, a Bavarian diamond mining and sardine fishing town, on the coast. It is a long, long way from anywhere here and is really rather bizarre. It is on the edge of the desert and there is no vegetation, just sand and rock. We overlook the town and it is reminiscent of a whaling outpost in Alaska (not that I have ever been to one). It is not what one would expect just south of the Tropic of Leprechaun, oops I mean Capricorn. We have not camped near a town for a very long time and it was lovely yesterday evening, just watching everything light up.

From here we will make for Fish River Canyon and then South Africa.

Essential repairs

We’ve now been in Namibia for three weeks, which is the longest we have spent in a single country since we left Egypt. It is a vast country with lots of open space and a population of only two million, and been one of the best for camping out in the wild. Some of the places we have found to camp have been absolutely magical.

We ended up spending four nights camped out in the sand dunes near Swakopmund. On the first night there we decided to walk up the dunes to watch the sunset. Walking up sand dunes isn’t easy at the best of times, but after seven months of sitting in a car with very little physical exercise it nearly killed me. My little heart felt like it was try to jump out of my chest, but it was worth it for the view. Pretty good fun coming down too.

Most of the days there were spent making repairs to various bits and pieces of the Land Rover. Each day there was a new job to attend to, but finally after a couple of days everything seemed okay for us to be able to get to Windhoek, where we knew we would be able to buy parts for the larger repair jobs we had been putting off.

On what we though would be our last afternoon there, we went into Swakopmund to get fuel and water, and to post Catkin’s blog entry which she had been busy writing while I worked on the vehicle. However, on our way back to the dunes, the occasional squeak that we had heard over the last couple of days suddenly became a loud grating noise, which after a bit of investigation we determined to be our front left wheel bearings. This was quite exciting for us, because we actually had wheel bearings and associated consumables in our very carefully considered supply of spare parts. Up until now, aside from fuel and oil filters, we had only used one universal joint of the parts we had carried all the way from England. Everything else that had broken we had either had to mend or buy en route. We slowly made our way back to the campsite, and a good part of the next morning was spent dismantling the front left hub and replacing those bearings.

After that, we decided to go into Swakopmund for a swim in the sea, then stay another night and leave early the next morning.

It was a long drive through to Windhoek, but on the way we detoured past Spitzkoppe, a massive rock outcrop.

We have now spent three days in Windhoek, and again most of the time has been taken up with repairs. We have been camping in the carpark of the Puccini Guest House very close to the centre of town, and I have been able to carry out all the work there. The guest house owner pointed us in the direction of an excellent Land Rover parts dealer who has had almost everything we have needed, including a new fuel tank and set of front coil springs. While I have been busy trying to remove old parts and replace them with new, Catkin has been traipsing around to the parts stores to get all the extra bits and pieces we need as more things break or need fixing. Now the fuel tank is in, the anti-roll bar that we took off in Botswana is back on, and the front of the vehicle is level and restored to its full height with the new springs, which just happen to be very close in colour to Rover Sandglo, the official colour of Camel Trophy Land Rovers. We even have new rubber mountings for our air cleaner housing, replacing the broken ones that we first repaired in Slovakia all those months ago. No more wire holding it all together.

So, not much in the way of sightseeing lately, and no exciting news to report, but it has been a busy week nonetheless. All our washing is done and our water tank is full so tomorrow we head out of town, into the desert again. Not fully sure exactly where we will head for yet, but we will be sure to let you know.

Sand dunes and leaks

We said goodbye to Amai in Oshikato and headed out on our own again. We had intended to buy fuel at a town close to the Angolan border. However some of these towns turned out to be more of a dot on the map and when we blinked we must have missed it. We just hoped we had enough diesel to last us to Opuwo. The one item that these towns sell in abundance is beer and there is a proliferation of bottle stores in the North West of Namibia. Often they are helpfully are combined with a builders merchant or motor spares shop.

The mopane and savanna gradually gave way to flooded sand plains and palm trees with a light dusting of new grass. Many animals were grazing in the flooded area. Most were either skinny, pregnant or tending their young, evidently just holding out for the rain. In Etosha we saw a Springbok doe licking her newborn clean. The foal was already on its feet trying to jump around.

Having journeyed north from Botswana we were again very close to having the sun overhead. The last time it was overhead we getting stuck in the mud.

The route to Epupa Falls took us along the Kunene River which forms the border with Angola. This is one of the few permanent rivers in Namibia and the road was a bit like a rollercoaster as we drove up and down all the dry river beds running into it. I had been scanning the skies in the distance hoping for rain clouds which might herald a flash flood, there was plenty of higher ground to escape to. However, despite all the rain we have seen my hopes were in vain. The rain has brought the area to life though. Many charred and sunburnt plants were giving way to blooms and trees were just bursting with leaves. Even out of bone dry sand, flowers were emerging. Each day brought more greenery and blooms.

As usual the actual distance bore little resemblance to those quoted on our maps and on road signs, with our ever dwindling diesel supply we eventually arrived at the Epupa Falls. This was a delightful area where from the surface it all just looks like a few rapids but when you walk over the rocks right to the edge all the water gushes down a 37 metre deep gash in the rock with Baobab tress clinging to the sides of the ravine.

This area is home of the Himba. The Himba women paint themselves (skin and hair) in red earth even their garments are red. They are bare breasted and wear leather skirts. The men seem to wear jeans and a shirt. There are many signs inviting one to visit their villages where one is expected to pay to take photographs, I have heard as much as 50N$ per photo is demanded. At the Falls we met a group pf Estonians who had visited a village and really enjoyed the experience until they were virtually mobbed by vendors of trinkets and souvenirs which they ended up buying many items because they felt both guilty and pressurised. I do appreciate that these cultures are very fragile and need support but we did not feel comfortable with this kind of support. Especially considering the number of beer bottle dumps co-located with the towns.

On the road to Opuwo we did find a fuel vendor so we bought 5litres from their drum after carefully inspecting it for impurities and water, just in case. We need not have been so worried. We made it all the way to Opuwo, past the first two fuel stations, through a stop sign, without quite stopping, and onto the forecourt of the BP station. Where, if Jan Toots and his truck had not been in the way we would have rolled to the diesel pump. Much to the amazement of Jan we had travelled 2030 kilometres on one tanking (including jerry cans) and had to use our emergency 5litres to make the final ten metres to the pump.

In Opuwo we were similarly mobbed by Himba who wanted to sell to us. When I politely declined, all the souvenirs are made of wood and seeds anyway which we would not be permitted to take into either Australia or New Zealand, I was accused of refusing to support their community.

Driving south to Sesfontein we drove down the steepest of roads. From the top I could barely see the bottom a few hundred metres down. It was a very slow descent for us. We saw no other vehicles on the whole stretch of road and I wondered how the trucks managed.

At Sesfontein we stayed at a local community run campsite on the hillside and attended to “personal administration”. The next morning, as I emerged from the tent, I could just make out a figure on the bend of the road one kilometre or so away, watching the campsite. As I was preparing breakfast the lad suddenly appeared with his bundle which he dropped near to the car. I greeted him and after a while he retired to the shade to watch us. As we were preparing to leave two women from the village turned up to re-connect the water supply (which the village and campsite share). The boy picked up his bundle and bolted, we never saw him again.

Hoping to spot desert dwelling elephants we took a drive down the ephemeral Hoanib river bed. We drew a blank on the elephants but Gavin did manage to complete “fiendish” sudoku puzzle he had been trying to figure out for ages. Carrying on the road south we saw these special elephants, giraffes and of course springbok.

The next morning after a windy and wet night we came across a car with four passengers and wheels all over the show. Late last night they sustained their second puncture and with no means to repair it were a bit stuck. We were the first car to pass by so we picked up another hitchhiker for a short while.

That night we made a lovely bush camp in the setting sun reflecting off Brandberg, Namibias highest mountain, nestled into some rocks for shelter from the wind. In the morning everything was shrouded in mist.

That day, whilst stopping to look at Welwitchias, which may not be traditionally beautiful they do live for 2000 years, we noticed a new leak of diesel from the main fuel tank.

Closer inspection, which involved removing the step and tank guard, which resulted in more bolts shearing off, revealed a pretty knackered fuel tank that is not really repairable. Let’s hope that our third and final fuel tank does not develop any holes now. Our jerry cans, thanks Pete, have come in really useful for siphoning fuel out of the tanks as well as increasing our range.

After a not so happy day we took refuge that night at the lovely Save the Rhino Trust Base Camp on the Ugab river. Although water was a bit scarce we did have hot showers out of a bucket. In the morning a ranger showed us the tracks of lion which had walked 50metres from our car during the night. Also, for the first time in Africa, there was loads of information about the area, the Rhinos and other fauna and flora.

From there it was all downhill to the sea. It was quite strange how the desert melts into the ocean. The very long, straight and flat shoreline is flanked by a hard salt road (not sure what happens when it rains, which is pretty seldom) and big fish fishing must be the main pursuit. Just about both of the other cars on the road had very long fishing rods attached to the front bumper like a big radio aerial.

Yesterday morning, I noticed a new fluid leaking from the bottom of the car. Oh no, it looked like brake fluid. But no the brake fluid levels were fine. It was clear salty fluid and as the sun rose higher it all dried off. It was there again this morning. All we can think is that despite spending ages washing and sluicing Etosha lime out of every nook and cranny, much of the salts still remain and is attracting moisture overnight. We think it is only happening now because there is much more moisture on the coast. Does anyone else have an explanation?

After finding tools, screws and more lovely shops to buy food from in Walvis Bay we are now camped in the sand dunes close to Swakopmund where Gavin has carried out yet more repairs to the car.

Maori Camp?

From Maun we headed north-west to the Tsodilo Hills. These hills stick out of the vast flat expanse of the Kalahari and, due to the presence of ancient rock paintings, are a UNESCO World Heritage site.

There is a small museum where you can arrange guided walks around the area to see the paintings. We had a bit of a walk around in the afternoon and saw a few paintings, but decided to go on a guided walk the following morning. Just as well we did, because we saw so much more than we otherwise would have. The guide was one of the local bushmen (bearing a striking resemblance to the star of ‘The Gods Must be Crazy’), and told us all sorts of stories about the paintings and his ancestors’ way of life. It was well worth it. Also, this was the first place we had been in Africa where they didn’t try to fleece you at every opportunity. There was no charge to enter the site or the museum, there was no pressure to take a guided walk and the fee was reasonable, and they provided campsites with toilets and hot showers for free. We liked it so much we stayed for two nights.

After the hills it was off to Namibia. After going through Botswanan Customs and Immigration, we fronted at the Namibian office only to be told that we needed N$160 for a vehicle cross border permit. US dollars were no good, and for the first time there were no touts changing money at the border posts. Unfortunately we didn’t have the cash, so had to go back into Botswana to the bank at the last town and get more money out. This was a few days after our game of search the ATM in Maun, and now started a game of search the debit card… Not to be found anywhere, possibly still sticking out of the machine in Maun. In addition, HSBC have been extremely diligent in their attempts to stop credit card fraud, and having noticed a few withdrawals from places they have never heard of, placed a stop on my card. This is despite us having informed them in advance and numerous times that we would be travelling through Africa and would be using our cards. In the end, we had to dig deep into our dwindling supply of US dollars. We are still not sure if this has been sorted out.

We entered Namibia at the western end of the Caprivi Strip, a very lush area as it has water all year round. In Rundu we met a group of four big hairy Norwegians in a Land Cruiser, applying for visas for Angola. They had bought their vehicle off another Norwegian in Cape Town and were driving it home. Up the west coast of Africa. And they want to be back in Norway by 1 April. This year. Good Luck. Good looking car though.

Namibian Roads are very good, but very straight. From Rundu we headed to Grootfontein, were we planned to stop for a couple of days and attempt to repair the brake vacuum pump, which was leaking more oil again after an earlier attempt at a temporary solution in Maun. Just before town we saw a sign for ‘Maori Camp’, so thought we would have to stay there. The owner was a bit mad, and spoke in a mixture of German and Afrikaans, with a small amount of English thrown in. Neither of us could really understand him at all, so although we asked, are none the wiser as to why it is called Maori Camp. He muttered something about Maori being an ‘Australian bushman’ so we tried to set him straight on this important point. The repair job, so far, has worked. If anyone is interested in boring detail, like I am, I have updated our Camel Riders Preparation page with more on our running repairs. See the link to the right.

The day we left Maori Camp it was raining heavily. Namibia is meant to be arid!

Nearby Grootfontein is the site of the Hoba meteorite, the largest known meteorite in the world. They reckon it weighs about 50 tonne, and landed about 80,000 years ago.

Later that day we made it to Etosha National Park, allegedly stacked with game surrounding the watering holes. Luckily, we had a tip from our friend Bren to head to the campsite at the far end of the park. The watering holes at the campsites are set up like theatres, with fenced off seating for the spectators to watch the procession of animals as they take turns to come and drink. Unfortunately for us, the first rain in a year had arrived just four days before we did, and after it has rained the animals don’t bother with the watering hole anymore. We did see loads though on our drive there and back, which we would have missed if we had gone to either of the closer campsites.

We met a Mongolian backpacker Amai at the campsite who asked if we could give him a lift out of the park. You should have seen his face when Catkin greeted him in Mongolian. We had a great day talking about Mongolia.

Now we are heading further north in search of the Epupa Falls.

Happy birthday Ma Bowley. Hope the day is bright and sunny. Raining here in Namibia. All going well with us. Next post coming soon... Love G&C

A river runs through it

Victoria Falls certainly did not fail to impress. We had a wonderful day viewing the Falls from as many different angles as possible. Firstly from the top where everything is almost serene, then round to the Eastern Cataract where the Falls start and the noise is tremendous. Further round there is a circular walk and I think that by the time we had been round twice Gavin was getting a bit bored and we were soaked. Water was coming at us from all directions and we could not tell if it was raining or not. It was hilarious watching the other people dressed in all sorts of waterproof gear, or not, sometimes it is just best to succumb to the inevitable.

We then took a walk down to the “boiling pot”, a surging bend in the river soon after the Falls. This took us through a microclimate special to Victoria Falls and the path did turn into a river halfway down. However at the bottom we had a great view of people bungee jumping off the bridge to Zimbabwe. Gavin and I congratulated each other that we were both veterans of this sport for quite a few years now, so there is no need to have another go!. We also saw a large kingfisher which looked like a kookaburra and some sort of hyrax, neither of which I could find in my book to properly identify- must be very rare I am sure. After obtaining passes from immigration we headed out onto the bridge to Zimbabwe for yet another new view of the Falls. Back at the car I entertained a group of Germans by chasing away aggressive baboons with a big stick, we had to eat lunch in the car with the windows up.

We have since heard of the floods in Mozambique. Considering that the area around Victoria Falls has had rain for most of the day everyday for 24 days before we arrived it is hardly surprising. Interestingly the Zambezi was not actually unusually high at the Falls.

The next day we headed across the border to Botswana. At some check point along the way someone in a uniform tried to charge us “Council Tax” for entering the area, which we would be in for about an hour! Naturally we did not pay it. At the border we again seemed to make things difficult for ourselves. We knew there was a ferry across the Zambezi so we had taken some cash out to cover this. However, it seems that the Zambian government did not really like its own currency and insists that all foreign vehicles must pay in either US dollars or South African Rand. We did not really want to change the money we had just changed from Sterling in to Zambian Kwacha into US Dollars at a rather less than favourable exchange rate with the local black market dudes. So we scrabbled around and found the required number of dollars in an oddment of notes. Now it really gets ridiculous. They would not accept the single dollar notes so we in fact ended up paying less than standard fare in dollars when we were willing to pay the correct fare in local currency. You win some sometimes I guess.

The Botswana border is quite interesting, from the ferry one can see Namibia, Botswana, Zambia and Zimbabwe whilst being closely watched by crocodiles and hippos. There were no banks or Forex offices on the Zambian side of the border so we hoped that there would be on the Botswana side, we prefer these to dodgy black market dudes. Anyway there was nothing on the other side either side of the Zambezi and rather than risk getting caught out and not being able to use our Zambian Kwacha, back on the ferry I went to Zambia to strike a deal with a dodgy dude. It is odd that so many of the countries we have travelled through will not exchange the currency of their neighbouring countries.

It was immediately evident that Botswana is a much more affluent African country. There are many more private vehicles. They may all be rather old and knackered but they are still private and the people drive them much more conservatively- not like the NGO employees hooning around in shiny white Toyota Land Cruisers. The roads are generally maintained and there is lots of MEAT in the supermarkets and butchers. Here “Fresh Produce” means meat rather than fruit and veg. So now Gavin is happy, but for me the fruit and veg is not nearly as good as in other countries- you win some you lose some. In Kasane we stocked up on fuel, engine oil, groceries- all cheaper in Botswana, and made enquiries about the route we hoped was possible through Chobe National Park to Maun. We were told it was a bit wet and we only had to pay park entry fees at one point. So off we went.

After the tar seal ended, we carried on a very good dirt track, the only bad areas where at an animal crossing and elephant herds had really mashed up the road. We found a good spot to camp and made a lovely bush camp with a big fire to keep the animals away. There were prints of all sorts of animals around but I could not identify any lion paw prints.

The next day we entered the Chobe National Park and the road began to deteriorate. The main problem was the water, however it was very sandy and despite the massive deluge of rain during the night it had already started to drain away and the base of the puddles/ ponds/ rivers were firm. A vehicle coming in the other direction also informed us the road through to Maun was passable. Close to Savuti camp we came to a watering hole where which looked like a Richard Scary painting. There were animals everywhere, kudu, gazelle, elephants, jackals, pied stilts, wildebeest, all sorts. It was wonderful. That evening elephants came wondering right through the campsite, very close to the car- luckily I did not have any mangoes in the car- otherwise we would have been eating them as quickly as we could.

It rained very heavily again overnight and the next morning we set off in convoy with a Dutch couple, in a rental vehicle, and a South African couple in their Toyota. The road was considerably worse than the previous day with the good firm sand gradually giving way to mud. At the Park exit gate the Ranger informed us that the road to Maun was in fact barely passable. The road got even worse, then there was a river crossing which was not possible in the rainy season and the detour was not easy find, very boggy and likely that we would get stuck any way. Also there are dangerous wild animals. The advice was that we should take the road through Moremi Park, and pay another set of Park fees. We had been wiped out of all our Pula entering Chobe and although there were offers to lend us the money from the others we decided to push on along the road on our own. After all, we have arms and could dig.

We said goodbye to our new friends and found a good spot to have some lunch, stick some chewing gum in the fuel tank hole we had noticed a few other car checks and play swap the tyres again. Gavin took over driving while I again became the “pathfinder”. Which meant I got to wade through all the ponds and puddles. We made very slow progress and after a few hours came to where we thought the detour turnoff could be. We were heading in the right direction and the road had even improved as we circumnavigated a large area of wetlands. It was a beautiful spot and it would have been lovely to spend an hour or so birdwatching, but we had more pressing matters. Soon we came to a big lot of wet, wet, wet road. We jumped out and spent some time surveying the area. There was plenty of evidence of where other people had got stuck. First was the big hole with mud and sand banked up. The hole was twice the size of the car- it must have taken those guys a long time to dig themselves out. Then there were braches and sticks everywhere where people had tried to make the whole road for 50 metres or so driveable. Our problem was in getting around this big hole. To the right it seemed a bit firmer and was our only real option. Unfortunately it was not firm enough. We got STUCK and stuck fast.

There were no trees to winch ourselves off. So down came the sand ladders, shovels and out came the high-lift jack. The mud was particularly tiresome because it was sandy mud, so when we shovelled it out of the way it just got back in the way again.

We were making progress when three local lads who had been fishing turned up. They insisted on helping us and eventually Gavin drove the car free to firm ground. Then we all jumped in the car and the boys said they would show us the way to the village. It became a bit like the blind leading the blind and after they got us lost and we found ourselves again using the GPS we eventually popped out at the village and said goodbye to our helpers with their fresh catch. From there onwards the road was good. Ironically in the space of a couple of kilometres we experienced both the best and the worst dirt roads for the whole trip so far.

The next day we trundled in to Maun and bumped into our friends at the fuel station- we had beaten them! Although we were considerably dirtier, and had a few more car noises to torment Gavin. I have to say that my chewing gum repair (the first repair to the car I have been permitted to do) responded to the challenge very well.

We found a good campsite with the best hot showers and plenty of clean water for laundry and took a few days rest.

Now having spent a few hours playing search the ATM which will let us have some cash we are on our way to the Tsodilo Hills and from then on to the Namibian border.

The lion sleeps tonight

Firstly, Happy New Year. We had a good but very wet New Year’s Eve, but more about that later.

Lilongwe was our opportunity to stock up on fuel and groceries in preparation for our assault on the border and invasion of Zambia. We stayed at another very comfortable campsite, well set up for overlanders like ourselves. In fact Peter and Sabina, the Austrian couple in the truck that we met at Chinteche Inn, were still there despite the fact that they had been heading to Mozambique when we last saw them. When we left they were still there…

So from there to the border. We had some confusion when, after thinking that we had completed Zambian customs and immigration, some guy with a nice umbrella refused to let us through the gate out of the compound. It turned out that the customs official I had dealt with had forgotten to charge us the (recently imposed) 150,000 Kwacha carbon tax, so once that was taken care of we were free to go. It turned out that the man with the umbrella was their security guard, although you wouldn’t know it to look at him. In a moment of brilliance, the officials suggested that they might try to get him to wear his proper uniform in future so that he would be more easily identified. Good idea.

It was New Year’s Eve, and we were aiming to make it to Flatdogs Camp, near the entrance to the South Luangwa National Park (thanks to Riggsy and Bainsy for the top tip), and just on sun set we finally made it, finding a nice spot under the trees.

The park is renowned as a great place for game spotting, including hippos, giraffes, zebras, elephants, baboons, lots of different antelopes, lions and leopards, and many species of birds. Sure enough, even on the track into the campsite we had to stop and wait for some elephants to move past, and they were roaming around the campsite while we were there as well. In fact, the security guards insist on escorting you if walk around at night just in case you happen to interrupt a hungry hippo having a midnight snack.

Flatdogs had the local New Year’s Eve party, and we were invited. We got to meet a few of the locals working in the tourism industry, and it was interesting to hear about their life in Zambia. Luckily, another guest brought their ipod along for some sounds, and yes, Africa by Toto was on it (as well as the Minder theme… who has that on their ipod?!). There was a big countdown for midnight, but I think Catkin was disappointed at the options for New Year’s snogs. Soon after midnight the rain started, and only got heavier and heavier. The courtyard outside the bar slowly filled up until we eventually had to make a dash for it back to the Land Rover and into our very dry and cosy roof tent.

New Year’s Day was spent relaxing in the campsite. In the afternoon we went for a walk along the riverbank and saw loads of hippos (chortling away to themselves), and then as the sun set a family of giraffes came and loped along the opposite bank.

The next day we took the Land Rover for morning and afternoon game drives, for a few hours each time. The roads were very wet and muddy, but we managed to keep it all together and not get stuck. We saw loads of wildlife, only missing out on the elusive leopard. At one point we were watching three elephants, including one baby, walking along when they came to a stream. We saw the two big elephants cross, but lost sight of the baby, until eventually it reappeared from behind its mother, completely soaked. The water mark on the mother was higher than the baby elephant, so we can only assume that it waded through using its trunk as a snorkel.

The highlight, just as we were giving up hope, was seeing two lionesses and two cubs right on the road. Even though this is supposedly the low season, the lions were being followed by loads of safari vehicles, all vying to give their customers the best view of the animals. One of the lionesses was soaking up all the attention, a decided to have a well earned rest in the middle of the road.



In case you’re wondering, a flatdog is a crocodile, and we saw a couple of them too.

We had planned to follow the river south-west from the park toward Lusaka, which would have been a massive shortcut, however with the on-set of the wet season, and particularly after the recent heavy rain, all the advice we were getting lead us to believe the road was impassable, even for a Camel Trophy Land Rover, and given that we were a single vehicle, abandoned the idea. This meant a four hour drive back to the main road from whence we came and then another six hours on seal of varying quality (negotiating some huge potholes).

With about 220km to go to Lusaka as the sun set, we pulled in to the only campsite for miles around. The quoted priced for a night’s camping seemed a little high, but we didn’t really have many options so decided to stop. In fact, it was the most expensive campsite we had been in since Europe, and for very basic facilities. When the manager came to see us soon after Catkin had started cooking dinner (I was reading the workshop manual about our latest noise) and told us that he would be switching the generator off in half an hour, we let him know that we thought the price for camping was far too much for a campsite that didn’t provide any lighting after 8:30pm, but when we started talking about either keeping the generator going or discounting the price, he just walked off into the night, and shortly after all went dark. Then we found that the showers were cold (the water was still warming up), and that the tap water was barely fit for washing in, let alone drinking, and we knew we were being had. Morning came, and it was time to pay up. To cut a long story short, after protracted negotiations, many sob stories, and a phone call to the police (who couldn’t come to sort it out because they didn’t have a car), we finally agreed that we would pay half the inflated price, which was still a lot for what we got. We don’t mind camping rough, and prefer to if we can find a good spot, but if we pay top dollar for a campsite we like to get what we are paying for!

On to Lusaka, and another chance for groceries, as well as having a couple of wheels balanced, with a night at another campsite surrounded by roaming zebras, impala and giraffes. From here we head to Livingstone, the mighty Victoria Falls and then to Botswana.