Happy Birthday Kathryn!

Catkin’s last post saw us back in Austria. Our main reason for going to Vienna was to collect our all important Insurance Green Card for Romania, which luckily had duly arrived via Post Restante (thanks to Bob and Sue). We also used the opportunity to stock up on guidebooks for Eastern Europe and the Middle East, and buy a map of Northern Africa, so hopefully we are now fully prepared for the months ahead. We spent a great evening in the city eating and drinking (as you do in European cities), ending up on the Danube in a cheap student bar where you had to pay a deposit for a glass (I felt old, especially when I noticed everyone there was just drinking straight from the bottle…why didn't I think of that?). We even managed to find our way back to the campsite on the U-Bahn.

Catkin with a precious glass

The following day we headed south-west for Slovenia, crossing the border via the Seeberg Sattel pass on Friday evening. Descending into the Slovenian countryside, our main aim was to find a campsite, and after at one point mistakenly ending up in a farmer’s driveway, we finally found ourselves in the largest camping ground in the country, near Bled. Bled is situated on a lake and the scenery is amazing. We hired a row-boat for an hour and went over to the church on the small island in the lake, as well as going for a quick swim , as it was HOT! The lake was just like a huge swimming pool. Later in the day we spent a couple of hours in Ljubljiana, and were treated to an impromptu performance by a German/Scottish pipes and drums band in the main square.

Bled Castle in the background

Further south-west we visited Skocjan Caves, a UNESCO World Heritage Site (thanks for the tip Marcus). This is a massive series of underground caverns formed by the river Reka, and the network of stairs and bridges made it feel like being in the Mines of Moria in a scene from The Lord of the Rings. The caves and the town museums were excellent.

Entrance to Skocjan Caves

Slovenia has been a big surprise for us. It’s small, but is clean, friendly and absolutely stunning.

Now we’re in Croatia, and I’m sitting in a pleasant campsite looking out at the full moon shining over the warm and salty Adriatic Sea. We have just finished a delicious dinner of corn-on-the-cob followed by stuffed peppers, lovingly prepared in Catkin’s camp kitchen, and polished off a very nice bottle of white wine from Austria. It’s just gone 11pm and it’s still 26ºC up in the tent!

And finally, Big Happy Birthday wishes from both of us today to Kathryn (my sister)!

Back to the Wenzlick’s homeland

The Czech Republic has to be amongst our favourite haunts so far. We stayed at a delightful campsite by a lake, in Bohemia. We spent the evening swimming and drinking beer. We also visited a really cool castle, in the village where the composer Janacek was born and then and got a bit lost on a walk. Cycling seems to be taking off in The Czech Republic. On Saturday almost every other car had bikes on the roof. There are also loads of cycle routes marked on the roads. As our first foray out of Western Europe during this trip, the sudden drop in prices for everything came as a very welcome surprise.

Lakeside campsite in Bohemia

Gavin and I decided a while ago that we wanted to visit Auschwitz in Poland, so hence a bit of a detour from our “east bound and down” direction of travel. We spent ages looking for a campsite, driving all around the area. Then just opposite Auschwitz we saw a sign “Auto camp” so we approached to investigate. Immediately a young chap jumped into the middle of the road motioning us towards the gate of what looked to be a car park- not an “Autocamp”. Given that it was almost 7pm it was quite clear that we were looking for somewhere to camp. He said “yes, yes camping” and I made the sign of a tent, again “yes, yes”, also there was a sign saying showers. So we drove in and he gave us a ticket. We then found out that the toilets and showers were locked anyway. So off we went to explore on foot and found the “Centre of Dialogue and Prayer”. They had a lovely campsite. Back we went to our car park and after some discussion with the cashier, who I suspect now regrets admitting to speaking English, we left.

The next day dawned clear and bright and into Auschwitz we went. Despite the glorious weather and the hoards of people it is still quite a remarkable place. Quite bizarre trying to imagine that it was a death factory and the immense pain, desolation and suffering that must have been experienced by millions. Parts of the camp have been reconstructed from original materials, such as the gas chamber. This was the prototype gas chamber and once the system and technique for mass murder had been “perfected” it appears that this gas chamber was destroyed and larger and more numerous chambers were built at the huge camp, Auschwitz –Birkanau 3 kilometres away. The immense displays of personal possessions stolen from the victims were also very sobering. There was also a very good exhibition on Poland during the war. I certainly had no idea of the extremes the Nazis had gone to, to dehumanise the Polish people as well as so many other groups of populations. The exhibition was almost quite brutal to the visitor in being quite unrestrainedly frank.

Auschwitz

Birkenau

Heading south into Slovakia we realised that it is exactly a year since we were in Slovakia for the Mongol Rally, and yesterday we even saw one of the teams driving in the other direction. We did stop for a bit, when we turned off that road, hoping to see a few more go past, but we were disappointed. Now in Vienna, having travelled via Bratislava.

Admin in Munich

Since our last post we have travelled from Italy, through the Dolomites and Alps (again), into Austria and then to Munich in Germany. The mountains have been amazing, and since the weather has been absolutely great, the views have been spectacular. On Sunday we travelled over the Grossglockner High Alpine Road, which is surrounded by a National Park. It is a popular weekend destination for the locals. We went for a bit of a walk up to the end of a glacier, and ended up helping carry a man on a stretcher to a place where a helicopter could land to pick him up. He had dislocated his ankle, but the doctor on the helicopter managed to put it back in, so he’ll be fine. Pretty painful though. We ended the day at Zell am See.

Grossglockner

We next passed through Berchtesgaden and nearby Obersalzburg where Hitler and the Nazi Party members had homes (and a full compliment of SS troops for protection). At the top of the mountain is Kehlsteinhaus, dubbed the Eagle’s Nest by the Americans, which was a house gifted to Hitler for his 50th birthday. Nice present.

View from the top

From there we have spent a morning walking around Salzburg, and have since made our way to Munich for a bit of admin. We now have our Carnet de Passages for the Land Rover, from the ADAC (German AA), and have picked up a spare oil filter from a LR dealer. Today we are having a wheel alignment and balance done at a very efficient tyre shop just to make sure all is A-OK before heading to more remote parts. Luckily for me, Catkin speaks German, although she has picked up a few new technical terms.

After Munich we head north-east towards Poland. Standby for further reports.

Watermelons in Venice

After making it across the French Alps in blizzard conditions we have popped out the other side into a very hot and dry Italy.

The trusty car tootled up the Alpine Cols at a speed that would almost put a”G-Whizz” car to shame. We even had to come down les Alps d’Huez in first gear. Unfortunately the view of Mont Blanc and the whole the Alps, from the top of Col d’Iseran, was obliterated by cloud. At the Col du Petit Sant Bernard we visited a delightful Botanical Alpine garden, although most of it was covered in snow I had lots of fun finding the flowers that were in bloom and Gavin just got cold.

Nearly blowing away at the top of the Col de L'Iseran

The difference once we started to descend into Italy was marked. Suddenly all the snow was gone and my toes began to warm up. Before long we had to stop to change out of our winter thermals. From the Italian Alps it was long way down to the Po valley, passing vineyards, rice fields, maize crops, ancient castles and being passed by crazy drivers.

In Piacenza we met up with friends of Granny Annie, Isabella and Fulvio. They took us to their summer house in the hills south of Magnano feeding us with fruit and Fulvio’s refreshingly sweet sparkling white wine. He is particularly proud that he produces wine that is 15% alcohol rather than the more traditional 12.5%. After showing us their archaeological remains, Fulvio excavated, underneath the house we were taken to lunch at a local Bar. Imagine Gavin’s surprise when after a big plate of pasta with bolognese sauce he was asked what sort of meat he would like for his main course. We surely ate well.

View from the terrasse in Magnano

After a beautiful night camping in the Magnano hills- we even used the solar shower for the first time, it was delicious, we made an early start for Venice.

Venetian canal

What a magnificent city. I do not really think that I should try to describe it. Yes there were hoards of tourist and we did do our usual thing of eating and drinking our way round the city, but there was so much to explore and turn a corner and all the other tourists have disappeared. Also, in my heart of heart I did in truth want to dress up in a stupendous 18th Century gown, don a terribly ornate mask and make my way in a Gondola to a masked ball. I think Gavin thought it was all a bit too hot for such a carry on.

Gavin has just made friends with the Australian owner of the campsite and the All Blacks vs South Africa are playing. So once we have finished watching the All Blacks win we will be off, back to the Alps direction Austria.

36 hours with no rain

Yes we did have 36 hours with no rain but it is raining again in the French Alps. However, it is warmer- so warm that the car has been trying to overheat going up some of the Cols- such as Col du Menee.

La Chapelle Notre Dame du Haut

Our visit to La Chapelle Notre Dame du Haut in Ronchamp, designed by Le Corbusier in the 1950's, was inspired by Gavin's sister's namesake, Claire (from Auckland). The Chapel is quite unlike any church I have visited before and found it to be exceedingly peaceful.

Le Puy en Velay

The Ballon des Vosges I understand affords wonderful views across to the Alps- alas we barely saw the other side of the valley. Yesterday we visited a quirky town in the middle of the Massif Centrale, Le Puy en Velay. The town is surrounded by the remains of 60 extinct volcanoes and has churches and statues on all different high rocky outcrops.

Table for two in Massif Central

Now we head on to L' Alpe d'Huez and Gavin's nemesis (although he did actually conquer it on a mountain bike) the Col du Galibier. Sadly we are too early for the Tour de France this year. From there on to Italy.

Sunshine in Luxembourg

At last the sun has come out from behind the clouds this afternoon! Luxembourg is quite a dramatic city. Time running out on the internet so short and sweet! Heading further south tomorrow.

View from Bock Casemates, Luxembourg

We had a great time in and around Delft with Richard, Caroline, Christine and Francesca at the weekend, going for a cycle ride on Saturday and then to Zeelend on Sunday. In Zeeland there is a profusion of well preserved Dutch towns and villages which were quite impressive.

Raining in Antwerp

We both had a fantastic time on Sunday afternoon, catching up with lots of friends and family before our departure. Last to leave was Ben Griffiths at 10.30pm, showing that the Welsh really can foot it with the best. Unfortunately we didn´t win the pub quiz.

Little Jasper, our nephew and my Godson, was all dressed up in his best safari suit for the day.

As you saw from the text entry, we were clamped in Brixton on Monday! Expensive to release, so will have to shorten our trip by a month.

So far we´ve tootled around Belgium, drinking beer and admiring racing pigeons. Today we are in Antwerp, and yes, it is raining... Tomorrow we head to Delft to see Richard and Caroline, formerly of Queenstown.

No probs so far with the Land Rover, however had to go to the petrol station last night halfway through cooking risotto to get more petrol for the stove!